Take 4 ½ hours. Serves 6.


For the broth

4   bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (675g total)
2   small carrots, cut into (3 cm) lengths
200 g negi or spring onions, cut into 3 cm lengths
2   cm piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced crosswise
1   tsp flaky sea salt
2   tbsp gold sesame oil
    brown rice miso or soy sauce, for flavouring

For the noodles

300 g plain flour, plus more for sprinkling
2   tbsp gold sesame oil
2   whole eggs, plus 2 yolks, at room temperature

For the toppings

200 g greens, such as komatsuna, bok choy, or spinach, blanched, squeezed, and chopped
3   Tbsp finely chopped negi or spring onions
3   eggs, at room temperature, boiled for 8 mins, refreshed, peeled, and halved lengthwise
1   sheet nori, cut into sixths
    rayu (chilli oil), optional
    shichimi togarashi (seven-spice powder)


1. For the broth: preheat the oven to 230°C, fan 210°C, gas 8. Toss the chicken, carrots, negi, and ginger with the salt. Rub with the sesame oil and arrange in an oven dish. Roast for 35 mins, until nicely browned.

2. Tip the chicken and veg into a large pot and add 4 ltr cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, and cook, covered, for 1 hr.

3. Remove the chicken and shred the meat into a bowl. Wet the meat with a scoop of broth. Return the bones to the pot and continue simmering, uncovered, for 30 mins. Strain into a clean pot and discard the bones and veg.

4. Meanwhile, make the noodles. Place the flour in a large bowl and drizzle in the sesame oil. Mix with your fingers until pebbly. Make a well and break in the whole eggs and yolks. Mix with your fingers until the eggs and flour are incorporated, but the dough is crumbly. Turn out onto a work surface and knead until smooth and pliable (about 5 mins). Let the dough rest for at least 30 mins.

5. Roll out the dough using a seimenki [noodle machine] or Italian pasta machine. Cut into thin noodles, approximately 3mm wide. Cut into 22cm lengths using a pizza cutter. Sprinkle with flour and toss to prevent sticking, but keep the noodles aligned.

6. Fill a large pot three-quarters full of water and bring to a boil over high heat.

7. Bring the broth to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce it to low. Prepare 6 large donburi [deep soup bowls], measuring in your choice of flavouring: 2 tbsp miso or 4 tsp soy sauce per bowl . Whisk 4 tbsp broth into each bowl to emulsify the flavouring.

8. Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook for 2 mins. While the noodles are cooking, add about 350ml broth into each bowl and whisk to combine with the flavouring liquid.

9. Drain the noodles and divide the noodles among the bowls. Working quickly (so the broth does not cool), keeping each ingredient in its own area, add 2 heaped tbsp chicken meat, 2 heaped tbsp greens, ½ tbsp negi, an egg half, and a small piece of nori. If desired, add spice with rayu (for soy sauce ramen) or shichimi togarashi (for miso ramen).

Nancy Singleton Hachisu



Gong bao ji ding, also known as Kung Pao chicken.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice and one stir-fried vegetable dish, 4 with three other dishes


2   boneless chicken breasts (about 300g or 3/4 pound in total)
3   cloves of garlic and an equivalent amount of ginger
5   spring onions, white parts only
2   Tbsp groundnut oil
    a handful of dried red chillies (at least 10)
1   tsp whole sichuan pepper
75   g (2/3 cup) roasted peanuts

For the marinade:

½   tsp salt
2   tsp light soy sauce
1   tsp shaoxing wine
1   tsp potato flour
1   Tbsp water

For the sauce:

3   tsp sugar
¾   tsp potato flour
1   tsp dark soy sauce
1   tsp light soy sauce tsp chinkiang vinegar
3   tsp sesame oil
1   Tbsp chicken stock or water


1. Cut the chicken as evenly as possible into 1cm strips and then into small cubes. Mix with the marinade ingredients.

2. Peel and thinly slice the garlic and ginger, and chop the spring onions into Icm (1/2 inch) chunks. Snip the chillies into 1.5cm (3/4 inch) sections, discarding seeds as far as possible. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl

3. Pour a little groundnut oil into the wok and heat until it smokes, swirling the oil around to cover the entire base of the wok. Pour off into a heatproof container. Add 3 tbsp fresh oil and heat over a high flame. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the chillies and Sichuan pepper and stir-fry for a few seconds until they are fragrant (take care not to burn them).

4. Add the chicken and continue to stir-fry. When the chicken cubes have separated, add the ginger, garlic and spring onions and stir-fry until they are fragrant and the meat is just cooked.

5. Give the sauce a stir and add to the wok, continuing to stir and toss. As soon as the sauce has become thick and lustrous, add the peanuts, mix them in, and serve immediately.

Fuchsia Dunlop via Sichuan Cookery



Cơm gà Hải Nam. Serves 4-6 as a main course.


For the chicken

1   whole high quality chicken (about 31/2 pounds)
5   quarter-sized slices ginger, peeled or unpeeled, crushed with the broad side of a cleaver or chef's knife
½   medium yellow onion, sliced
2   teaspoons salt
1   tablespoon fish sauce

For the rice

2   cups raw long-grain rice, such as Thai jasmine
4   tablespoons chicken fat (take from poaching liquid) or peanut oil
1½  tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1   tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
1   tablespoon finely chopped shallot
4   fresh or thawed pandan leaves, tied together in one loose knot (optional)
    salt, to taste

Sauce option 1: Ginger sauce

2   inch chubby section ginger (about 2 ounces), peeled and thinly sliced
1½  tablespoons peanut oil
¼   teaspoon salt

Sauce option 2: Singapore chili sauce

2-3 large red chiles, such as Fresno, cayenne, or long chile, coarsely chopped
2-3 hot Thai chiles, coarsely chopped
1   teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1½  teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger
½   teaspoon sugar
¼   teaspoon salt
1   tablespoon fresh lime juice
1   tablespoon hot chicken poaching broth

Sauce option 3: Sweet Soy Sauce

1   tablespoon light (regular) soy sauce
1   tablespoon dark soy sauce
1½  teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1   tablespoon sugar
½   teaspoon Asian chili sauce, such as Sriracha


1   english cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced tomato, thinly sliced or cut into wedges
4-5 sprigs cilantro, coarsely chopped


1. Rinse and pat the chicken dry with paper towel. Cut off the head, neck, wing tips and feet - extraneous parts that are on your chicken. Use a heavy cleaver to cut the neck and wings into halves or thirds. Aim to cut through the bone. Set aside.

2. Select a pot that the chicken snugly fits into with about an inch clearance between the top of breast and the edge of the pot. Fill it halfway with water and add the extraneous parts that you just cut up, along with the ginger, onion, and salt. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat and add the chicken.

When the pot returns to a boil, lower the heat to gently simmer. Bubbles should softly dance at the surface. Basing your cooking time on the chicken's original weight, poach for 10 minutes per pound (a 31/2-pound fryer takes 35 minutes). Use tongs to rotate the chicken halfway through to ensure even cooking.

Near the end of the cooking time, get a large bowl of ice water ready and set it near the stove. Use tongs to remove the chicken from the pot and plunge it in the ice water. Turn the chicken to expose it to the cold water. Drain and place the chicken on a plate. Let it cool completely before slicing. Leave it at room temperature if serving soon, or cover it in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Bring it to room temperature before cutting.

3. Meanwhile, add the fish sauce to the broth. Boil the broth until it has reduced by one-third, or until its flavor has concentrated enough for your taste. Turn off the heat and, skim the fat - reserving it for cooking the rice. Strain the broth into another pan. Discard the solids. Cover and set aside while the chicken cools.

4. For the rice, rinse the rice and let it drain for 10 minutes in a mesh strainer positioned over a bowl. Meanwhile, bring the stock to a near simmer in a small saucepan, and then cover to keep it hot.

5. In a heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan, heat 4 tablespoons of chicken fat over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, ginger and shallot and cook, stirring constantly, until no longer raw smelling, 1 to 2 minutes. Firmly shake the strainer of rice to expel any hidden water, and then add the rice to the pot. Stir constantly with a large spoon until the grains are opaque white and feel light, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat slightly, measure out 2 ½ cups of hot broth and add the broth and expect dramatic boiling. Immediately give the pot a big stir, reduce the heat to medium to simmer, add the pandan leaves, then let the rice simmer vigorous.

Cook the rice for a few minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times, until most of the water has been absorbed and the surface looks glossy and thick; small craters/holes may form too. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it sit for 10 minutes to firm up and finish cooking. Uncover, fluff with chopsticks or a fork, and then cover. Wait 5 minutes before serving. The rice will stay warm for 30 minutes.

6. Make one, two or all of the sauces and set at the table:

For the ginger sauce, put the ginger, oil, salt, and 1 tablespoon of hot chicken poaching broth (take it from the pot) into a small electric mini chopper and process to a fine texture. Taste and add up to 2 more tablespoons of poaching broth. Transfer to a dipping sauce dish.

For the Singapore chili sauce, put all of the ingredients, the large red chiles, Thai chiles, garlic Ginger, sugar, salt, lime juice and 1 tablespoon hot chicken poaching broth into a small electric mini chopper and process to a semi-coarse sauce. Transfer to a dipping sauce dish.

For the sweet soy sauce, combine the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and chili sauce in a dipping sauce container, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

7. To serve, use a sharp knife to detach each wing at the shoulder joint. Separate the two wing sections and use a meat-chopping cleaver to chop them into smaller pieces. (Or, keep them whole.) Arrange them on one large serving plate or two small ones. Remove the breasts and leg and thigh quarters. Cut the meat off the bone and slice it into bite-size pieces. Add them to the serving plate(s) in a nice arrangement, skin side up for a beautiful presentation. (Guests may remove the skin while eating.) Finish by scattering cilantro on top.

Bring the broth to a near boil and taste, adding extra salt if necessary. Strain the broth into a large soup bowl and sprinkle with black pepper. Serve immediately with the chicken, rice, cucumber and tomato slices, and dipping sauces.

You may have guests eat the broth out of a rice bowl and the rice and chicken from a plate, using fork and spoon as primary utensils.

Charles Phan, The Slanted Door, San Francisco



Danish Chilled Buttermilk Soup. Serves 4.


3   egg yolks
2½  tablespoons sugar
2   cups buttermilk
1   cup kefir
½   cup heavy cream
1   lemon, juice and zest
1   pint strawberries, husked and quarters
1   teaspoon vanilla bean paste (optional)
4   dry crispy biscuits, broken apart


1. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl. Beat together using a handheld mixer or a large whisk until thick and pale yellow, about 6 to 8 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, stir in the buttermilk, kefir, cream and lemon juice and zestuntil well combined. Chill the soup in the fridge for at least 1 hour before serving.

2. To serve, pour the soup into 4 bowls and top each bowl with biscuit pieces. Garnish with strawberries and serve immediately.

Christian Puglisi, Relæ, Copenhagen, Denmark



Rigatoni with Brussel Sprouts, Bacon, and Arugula.

To impart the taste of fresh, uncooked garlic to sauteed recipes without leaving bits of sliced or minced garlic in the finished dish, add a smashed garlic clove in the last few minutes of cooking, then remove it before serving. For a greater impact, leave it in longer; take it out quickly if just a hint of garlic is what you’re after.

Serves 6 as a starter or pasta course - 4 as a main course.


    kosher salt
48  pieces dried rigatoni (about 4 cups), preferably De Cecco
3   tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2   tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4   ounces smoked bacon, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 3/4 cup)
10  ounces Brussels sprouts (about 12), trimmed and quartered lengthwise
2   tablespoons unsalted butter
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2   garlic cloves: 1 thinly sliced, 1 smashed with the side of a chef’s knife and peeled
2   cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
2¼  cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 3 1/2 ounces)
1   lemon, juiced
¼   cup minced fresh herbs, either a mix of flat-leaf parsley, dill, and tarragon, or just parsley
2   cups loosely packed baby arugula, washed and spun dry
    toasted bread crumbs (see recipe below)


1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta, give a stir, and cook for 5 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander, return it to the pot, and toss with the oil. Use right away or spread the pasta out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool, then hold at room temperature for up to 8 hours.

2. Select a wide, heavy, not-to-deep pot that can hold most of the ingredients in a single layer, or close to it. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in the pot over medium heat for a few seconds, just to keep the bacon from sticking when added, then add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tablespoon of the butter and cook until the bacon is lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes more. Season generally with salt and a few grinds of pepper.

3. Add the parcooked pasta and remaining 1 tablespoon butter and cook, stirring, until the pasta is lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sliced garlic and 1 cup of the stock. Cover and cook until the pasta has absorbed the stock, 3 to 4 minutes. Add another 1/2 cup stock, cover, and cook until it is reduced and the pasta is cooked through and glazed, stirring in a few more tablespoons of the stock, if necessary, to cause a glaze to form. Stir in the smashed garlic clove, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, 1 1/2 cups of the cheese, the lemon juice, and the herbs. If the pasta seems too dry, stir in a little more stock or water.

4. Remove and discard the smashed garlic clove. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the arugula, just wilting it, about 20 seconds.

5. Divide the rigatoni among six plates (or four as an entree) or wide shallow bowls. Top with remaining cheese and bread crumbs, and serve.

6. To make toasted bread crumbs, preheat oven to 275 degrees. Dice day-old bread and put it in a bowl. (If you don’t have any day-old bread, you can lightly toast bread in a low oven until just hardened.) Grate 1 or 2 garlic cloves, depending on the intensity of flavor desired, into the bowl using a Microplane. Pick the thyme leaves from 2 or 3 sprigs, and add them to the bowl, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread the bread out on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, shaking occasionally to endure even cooking, until lightly golden, completely dry, and hardened, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and pulse to crumbs, but do not overprocess or they will become sandy. Bread crumbs can be held in an airtight container at room temperature for several weeks.

Joseph Ogrodnek, Walker Stern, and Andrew Friedman, Battersby, New York, NY


Serves 2 as an entrée, or 4 family style


For the roasted chicken:
1   whole chicken, 2.5-3 lbs
3   rutabagas
3   turnips
3   parsnips
3   large leeks
4   carrots, trimmed and cut in half
1½  small onion
8   small red-skinned potatoes
    clarified butter (or 1/3 c. canola oil)
1   lemon

For the brine:

5   lemons, halved
6   bay leaves
½   bunch (4 ounces) flat-leaf parsley
½   bunch (1 ounce) fresh thyme
¼   cup clover honey
1   head garlic, halved through the equator
⅛   cup black peppercorns
1   cup (10 ounces) kosher salt
1   gallon water


1. BRINE AND PREPARE. Combine all of the brine ingredients and bring to a boil. Once boiling, remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Pour brine into a container large enough to hold both the brine and the chicken. Chill brine in the refrigerator.

2. While the brine is chilling, remove the chicken neck and innards from the cavity, if present. Using a paring knife, cut out the wishbone from the chicken—this will make it easier to carve the chicken. Submerge the chicken in the cold brine and chill in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 hours.

3. When done brining, pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Discard the brine.

4. TRUSS THE CHICKEN. Cut a piece of kitchen twine about 3 feet long. Tuck the center of the string under the pope’s nose (the small bit of meat at the top of the chicken’s tail end), then wrap around and over the ends of the legs. Cross the twine and slide under each leg to create a figure 8. Pull across and back at the same time to plump the chicken breast and bring the twine all the way around the breasts. As you press into the breast meat with your thumbs at the neck, cross each side of the string under the cut neck bone. Tie a slipknot, then bring each end of the string around a wing to close them to the body. Tie off to finish. Place chicken in a baking sheet or dish and leave uncovered in the refrigerator for two days. Doing so dries out any excess moisture from the chicken skin, allowing it to crisp beautifully during roasting.

5. After two days, remove the chicken from the refrigerator and allow to temper to room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

6. PREPARE THE ROOT VEGETABLES. Cut off both ends of the rutabagas. Stand the rutabagas on end and cut away 1⁄8-inch of the tough skin, working from top to bottom. Cut into 3/4-inch wedges.

7. Repeat with the turnips, cutting the wedges to match the size of the rutabagas. Cut off the dark green leaves from the top of the leeks. Trim off and discard any darkened outer layers. Trim the root ends, cutting around them on a 45-degree angle.

8. Halve the leeks lengthwise and rinse the leeks well under warm water. Scrub the parsnips and carrots, trim, and halve lengthwise.

9. Cut the parsnips into wedges similar in size to the other vegetables to ensure even cooking.

10. Cut the onion into wedges and leave the potatoes whole.

11. Combine all the vegetables in the roasting pan and season with salt. Drizzle clarified butter or canola oil over the vegetables and mix with your hands to coat.

12. ROAST THE CHICKEN. Preheat the oven to 475°F. Brush the chicken with clarified butter and season all sides with salt. Make a nest in the center of the vegetables and nestle the chicken in it.

13. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F and roast for an additional 30 to 45 minutes, or until the temperature registers 160°F in the meatiest portions of the bird (the thickest part of the thigh, and under the breast where the thigh meets the breast) and the juices run clear. If necessary, return the bird to the oven for more roasting; check it every 5 minutes.

14. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and allow to rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

15. Just before serving, set the pan of vegetables over medium heat and reheat the vegetables, turning them to coat with the pan juices.

16. Finish with a squeeze of lemon. Carve the chicken into serving pieces, arrange over the vegetables, finish with grey sea salt, and serve.

Thomas Keller, The French Laundry


Serves 6.


9   medium-sized potatoes
    unsalted butter or duck or goose fat
    chicken stock cube


1. For the clarified butter: Slowly heat 200 g of chopped unslated butter in a pan. Discard the surface liquid (made up of milk solids and water). The remaining golden liquid is clarified butter.

2. For the potatoes. Chop the potatoes in half, then halves again.

3. Meanwhile, put the clarified butter/fat into the roasting tin for the potatoes. Sprinkle in a chicken stock cube – this provides seasoning so there is no need for salt.

4. Heat the fat in the oven at 190°C/Gas Mark 5.

5. We recommend cooking them for 45 minutes. At the first sign of cracks in the potatoes’ edges remove them from the heat and drain.

6. Remove the roasting tin from the oven and carefully place the hot potatoes into the fat, which should come up the edge of the potatoes. Baste them well with clarified butter or your turkey baste and return to your oven. Roast them for

7. Do not touch the potatoes now until they are ready to be served, turning them may break them. Just leave them be.

Marco Pierre White



The thick soy sauce in Kaeshi and ingredients, such as chicken and leeks give umami to the dipping sauce, intended for winter.
Serves 4.


    soba for 4 persons
280 g chicken meat
2   large scallions
50  cc dark soy sauce
20  cc thick soy sauce
10  g sugar
70  cc mirin
500 cc thick katsuo dashi
50  cc sake
    egg yolk


1. Prepare “kaeshi,” a part of the dipping sauce with the dark soy sauce, thick soy sauce, sugar and mirin. Boil them up. (Kaeshi)

2. Cut thick scallions into 5 cm lengths.

3. Dilute 1 with thick katsuo dashi and sake.

4. Add bite-sized chicken (2~3cm cube) and 2. Cook for 12 minutes.

5. Cook the soba and drain. Serve with 4. Add sansho, mustard and egg yolk as you like.

Takeshi Kawanishi, Hisago Zushi, Kobe, Japan