RECIPE ARCHIVE : A GASTRONOMIC INDEX

RECIPE ARCHIVE: A GASTRONOMIC INDEX

NOTES

Yields about 1 cup.

INGREDIENTS

1-3 garlic cloves, grated or mashed to a paste
1 teaspoon lemon juice, more to taste
⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt, more to taste
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD

1. Combine garlic, lemon juice and salt in a blender or food processor and let sit a minute or two. Add eggs and blend until combined. With the blender running, slowly add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. You can use a mortar and pestle if you prefer.

2. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and lemon juice if needed.

NOTES

Serves 6-8.

INGREDIENTS

6 slices bacon, cut into lardons
3 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 pounds stewing beef, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 large carrot, sliced
1 large white onion, sliced
1 pinch coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups red wine, like a chianti
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves smashed garlic
½ thyme
1 crumbled bay leaf
1 small pearl onions
18-24 tablespoons butter
1 herb bouquet (4 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme, 1 bay leaf)

METHOD

1. Simmer bacon lardons in 4 cups water for 10 minutes (Lardon is the French culinary term referring to thin strips of bacon, cut approximately 1/4-inch thick). Drain and pat dry.

2. Preheat oven to 450°F. In a large Dutch oven, sautÃ© the bacon in 1 tablespoon of oil for about 3 minutes, until it starts to lightly brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

3. Dry the beef with a few paper towels for better browning. In batches, sear the beef on all sides in the Dutch oven. Set aside with the bacon.

4. Back in the pot, add the sliced carrots and onions; sauté in fat until browned, about 3 minutes. If there's any excess fat, drain it now.

5. Add the bacon and beef back to the pot. Season with 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt and 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper. Toss. Sprinkle with flour and toss once more. Place in the center of the oven for 4 minutes.

6. Remove pot from oven; toss beef and place back in the oven for 4 more minutes. Remove the pot from the oven and reduce the heat to 325°F.

7. To the pot, add the wine and stock. The liquid should barely cover the meat and vegetables. Add the tomato paste, garlic and thyme. Bring to a light simmer on the stove, then cover and simmer in the lower part of the oven for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is easily pierced.

8. In the last hour of cooking, bring 1 1/2 tablespoons butter and 2 teaspoons oil to a medium heat in a sauté pan. Add the pearl onions and toss around in the fat until they've browned, 10 minutes. Then stir in 1/2 cup beef stock, a small pinch of salt and pepper and the herb bouquet. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the onions for about 40 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated, and the onions are tender.

9. Remove the onions and set aside. Discard the herb bouquet and wipe out the skillet. Add the remaining butter and oil and bring to a medium heat.

10. Add the mushrooms and cook for about 5 minutes, shaking the pan to coat with the butter.

11. Place a colander over a large pot. Drain the beef stew through the colander and into the pot. Place the pot with the sauce over a medium heat and simmer for about 5 minutes, skimming any fat on top. Pour the beef and vegetables back into the Dutch oven. Add the pearl onions and mushrooms to the pot. Pour the sauce over the beef mix and simmer an additional 3 to 5 minutes.

Julia Child, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 1961.

NOTES

Braised for hours and then left to rest, a beef-and-vegetable stew develops deep flavor.

Serves 6 - 8.

INGREDIENTS

3 lbs. beef cheeks, cut into quarters
1 lamb shank
3 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 onions, coarsely chopped
3 bay leaves
2 sprigs savory or marjoram
1 sprig rosemary
4 green cardamom pods
8 green Sichuan peppercorns
6 juniper berries
4 cups red wine
3 T olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 T flour
1 lb. peewee potatoes

METHOD

1. In a large bowl, combine the beef, lamb, carrots, onions, herbs and spices; marinate in the red wine for 24 hours.

2. Drain the liquid and reserve.

3. In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Season the meat with salt and pepper, and sear for 5 to 8 minutes.

4. Add the vegetable mixture and sauté for 4 minutes.

5. Stir in the flour and cook for 3 minutes, then add the reserved marinade and 4 cups of water.

6. Reduce heat to low and cook for 4 hours.

7. Remove from heat and set aside for at least 45 minutes.

8. Bring 3 quarts of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and reduce to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes or until tender.

9. Add potatoes to the stew, reheat, season and serve.

Édouard Loubet, La Bastide de Capelongue, Provence, France.

NOTES

Sun-dried tomatoes, like kombu, contain high levels of glutamate. This glutamate combines with the inosinate present in meat, to produce umami’s signature synergistic effect.

Serves 4.

INGREDIENTS

200 g beef fillet (fat and sinew removed)
20 g sun-dried tomatoes
50 ml sake
1 pinch of salt

METHOD

1. Cut the beef into strips, 3cm wide and 5cm long.Sprinkle lightly with salt and set aside for one hour.

2. Soak the dried tomatoes in the sake for half a day,then heat gently until tender.Mix to a paste in a blender.

3. Place (1) and (2) together in a bag and vacuumseal it. Leave in the fridge for one day.

4. Grill until the surface of the meat is browned on all sides; keep the centre of the meat at around 40 degrees Celsius.

Yoshihiro Takahashi, Hyotei, Kyoto, Japan

NOTES

Serves 4.

INGREDIENTS

2 x 400 g beef fillets
olive oil, for frying
500 g mixture of wild mushrooms, cleaned
1 thyme sprig, leaves only
500 g puff pastry
8 slices of Parma ham
2 egg yolks, beaten with 1 tbsp water and a pinch of salt
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the red wine sauce

2 tbsp olive oil
200 g beef trimmings
4 large shallots, peeled and sliced
12 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig
1 splash of red wine vinegar
1 x 750ml bottle red wine
750 ml beef stock

METHOD

1. Wrap each piece of beef tightly in a triple layer of cling film to set its shape, then chill overnight.

2. Remove the cling film, then quickly sear the beef fillets in a hot pan with a little olive oil for 30-60 seconds until browned all over and rare in the middle. Remove from the pan and leave to cool.

3. Finely chop the mushrooms and fry in a hot pan with a little olive oil, the thyme leaves and some seasoning. When the mushrooms begin to release their juices, continue to cook over a high heat for about 10 minutes until all the excess moisture has evaporated and you are left with a mushroom paste (known as a duxelle). Remove the duxelle from the pan and leave to cool.

4. Cut the pastry in half, place on a lightly floured surface and roll each piece into a rectangle large enough to envelop one of the beef fillets. Chill in the refrigerator.

5. Lay a large sheet of cling film on a work surface and place 4 slices of Parma ham in the middle, overlapping them slightly, to create a square. Spread half the duxelle evenly over the ham.

6. Season the beef fillets, then place them on top of the mushroom-covered ham. Using the cling film, roll the Parma ham over the beef, then roll and tie the cling film to get a nice, evenly thick log. Repeat this step with the other beef fillet, then chill for at least 30 minutes.

7. Brush the pastry with the egg wash. Remove the cling film from the beef, then wrap the pastry around each ham-wrapped fillet. Trim the pastry and brush all over with the egg wash. Cover with cling film and chill for at least 30 minutes.

8. Meanwhile, make the red wine sauce. Heat the oil in a large pan, then fry the beef trimmings for a few minutes until browned on all sides. Stir in the shallots with the peppercorns, bay and thyme and continue to cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the shallots turn golden brown.

9. Pour in the vinegar and let it bubble for a few minutes until almost dry. Now add the wine and boil until almost completely reduced. Add the stock and bring to the boil again. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 1 hour, removing any scum from the surface of the sauce, until you have the desired consistency. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve lined with muslin. Check for seasoning and set aside.

10. When you are ready to cook the beef wellingtons, score the pastry lightly and brush with the egg wash again, then bake at 200°C/Gas 6 for 15-20 minutes until the pastry is golden brown and cooked. Rest for 10 minutes before carving.

11. Meanwhile, reheat the sauce. Serve the beef wellingtons sliced, with the sauce as an accompaniment.

Gordon Ramsay, 2013.

NOTES

Serves 2.

INGREDIENTS

1 jalapeño, halved
1 serrano chile, halved
1 chile güero or fresh banana pepper, halved
½ small yellow onion
1 clove garlic, smashed
3 tbsp. grapeseed oil
kosher salt
2 (8 oz.) flatiron steaks
1 bunch broccolini
1 bunch bok choy
1 tbsp. olive oil
black papper
2 limes, cut into wedges
fresh cilantro, for garnish
8 corn tortillas

METHOD

In a large pot over low heat, cook jalapeño, serrano, Chile Güero, onion, garlic, and grapeseed oil until everything has softened, or for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow time for the vegetables to cool.

2. Place cooled vegetables into a blender, reserving oil. Blend on high and slowly stream in reserved oil to emulsify. Continue blending Guacachile until smooth, and season with salt to taste.

3. Brush steaks, broccolini, and Bok Choy with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

4. On a gas or charcoal grill, place steaks over direct heat. (If cooking inside, set a cast-iron pan over medium-high heat until it’s smoking hot! )

5. Cook the steaks to your desired temperature: 2 minutes on each side for medium-rare, 3 minutes for medium.

6. Transfer steaks to a cutting board and sprinkle with more salt and a squeeze of lime and allow the meat to rest before slicing.

7. Serve with Guacachile salsa, cilantro, lime wedges, and warm tortillas.

Enrique Olevera, Pujol, Mexico City, Mexico.

NOTES

Take 4 ½ hours. Serves 6.

INGREDIENTS

For the broth

4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (675g total)
2 small carrots, cut into (3 cm) lengths
200 g negi or spring onions, cut into 3 cm lengths
2 cm piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced crosswise
1 tsp flaky sea salt
2 tbsp gold sesame oil
brown rice miso or soy sauce, for flavouring

For the noodles

300 g plain flour, plus more for sprinkling
2 tbsp gold sesame oil
2 whole eggs, plus 2 yolks, at room temperature

For the toppings

200 g greens, such as komatsuna, bok choy, or spinach, blanched, squeezed, and chopped
3 Tbsp finely chopped negi or spring onions
3 eggs, at room temperature, boiled for 8 mins, refreshed, peeled, and halved lengthwise
1 sheet nori, cut into sixths
rayu (chilli oil), optional
shichimi togarashi (seven-spice powder)

METHOD

1. For the broth: preheat the oven to 230°C, fan 210°C, gas 8. Toss the chicken, carrots, negi, and ginger with the salt. Rub with the sesame oil and arrange in an oven dish. Roast for 35 mins, until nicely browned.

2. Tip the chicken and veg into a large pot and add 4 ltr cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, and cook, covered, for 1 hr.

3. Remove the chicken and shred the meat into a bowl. Wet the meat with a scoop of broth. Return the bones to the pot and continue simmering, uncovered, for 30 mins. Strain into a clean pot and discard the bones and veg.

4. Meanwhile, make the noodles. Place the flour in a large bowl and drizzle in the sesame oil. Mix with your fingers until pebbly. Make a well and break in the whole eggs and yolks. Mix with your fingers until the eggs and flour are incorporated, but the dough is crumbly. Turn out onto a work surface and knead until smooth and pliable (about 5 mins). Let the dough rest for at least 30 mins.

5. Roll out the dough using a seimenki [noodle machine] or Italian pasta machine. Cut into thin noodles, approximately 3mm wide. Cut into 22cm lengths using a pizza cutter. Sprinkle with flour and toss to prevent sticking, but keep the noodles aligned.

6. Fill a large pot three-quarters full of water and bring to a boil over high heat.

7. Bring the broth to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce it to low. Prepare 6 large donburi [deep soup bowls], measuring in your choice of flavouring: 2 tbsp miso or 4 tsp soy sauce per bowl . Whisk 4 tbsp broth into each bowl to emulsify the flavouring.

8. Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook for 2 mins. While the noodles are cooking, add about 350ml broth into each bowl and whisk to combine with the flavouring liquid.

9. Drain the noodles and divide the noodles among the bowls. Working quickly (so the broth does not cool), keeping each ingredient in its own area, add 2 heaped tbsp chicken meat, 2 heaped tbsp greens, ½ tbsp negi, an egg half, and a small piece of nori. If desired, add spice with rayu (for soy sauce ramen) or shichimi togarashi (for miso ramen).

Nancy Singleton Hachisu

NOTES

Cook’s note: Tomatoes: For this dish it’s important that the tomatoes are of the very best quality. If you are making this dish in the late summer/early fall months when tomatoes are ripe and in season, fresh, ripe Roma tomatoes are ideal. If not, substitute with the best quality canned San Marzano tomatoes you can find. Use two (28-ounce) cans of whole peeled San Marzano (D.O.P) tomatoes, drained and cut into halves or quarters as a substitute for the fresh tomatoes in this dish.

Lamb: This is a rustic dish made from leftovers. It can be made from a combination of leftover cooked lamb combined with raw lamb, or solely raw lamb. The leg of lamb used in this dish was roasted, but lamb (from the leg or shoulder) cooked simply any way will do; it could be grilled, roasted or braised. Roughly 2 ½ pounds of raw lamb will equal approximately 1 ¼ pounds cooked. The raw portion of lamb used in this dish is the very tender lamb flank. In American Butchery cuts, it’s connected to the saddle, but a call to your butcher should get you the right cut. The lamb flank can have a great deal of fat; be sure to trim away excessive amounts, leaving some in for flavor and texture.

Take 4 ½ hours. Serves 6.

INGREDIENTS

For the chickpeas

1 c (6.25 ounces) picked over dry chickpeas
salt

For the cooked tomatoes

14 whole small roma tomatoes, (2 ¼ pounds) (or substitute whole peeled canned tomatoes – see cook’s note)
ice for ice bath
salt

For the soup

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 medium red onions, peeled and cut into 1-inch wedges (about 3 cups)
5 medium carrots, scrubbed, and cut into 1-inch half moon pieces (about 3 cups)
7 small turnips, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch wedges (about 3 cups)
5 whole garlic cloves, peeled Sea salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ pounds cooked leg of lamb, cut into bite-sized pieces, (see cook’s note)
2¾ pounds lamb flank, trimmed of excess fat and cubed, (see cook’s note)
1½ tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
pinch habanero chile powder or cayenne powder, or to taste
2 tablespoons tomato paste
5 small whole preserved lemons, seeded and chopped, (about 1 cup)
2 stalks of celery, cut crosswise into ½-inch slices
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon celery seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
3 quarts (48 ounces) white chicken stock or low sodium chicken broth
2 cups mixed fresh cilantro and mint (picked leaves), plus more for serving
2 stalks celery, sliced thin (1 cup)
2 small preserved lemons, seeded and chopped (1/2 cup)
2 large lemons, juiced (1/2 cup)
large lemons cut into wedges, for serving
crusty bread, for serving

METHOD

1.Cover the chickpeas by at least 2 inches of water and soak overnight in the refrigerator.

2. Change the water and add the chickpeas to a large pot with enough water to cover the chickpeas by 1 inch. Bring the water to a simmer, about 10 minutes. Skim off any foam. Top off with (1 cup) more water to cool off the liquid. Reduce heat to medium-low. Bring to a slow simmer again, skim off any foam, and add more water (1 cup). Repeat this process 2-3 more times to slowly cook the chickpeas until they are soft and creamy, about 1 ½ to 2 hours. Season with salt. Measure out 1 ½ cups of cooked chickpeas and set aside for use in the Chorba. Store the remaining chickpeas in the refrigerator for another use.

3. For the tomatoes. Note: If using canned tomatoes, the following process is not necessary, simply halve or quarter the canned tomatoes and reserve for use in the Chorba. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Using a pairing knife, make an “x” on the bottom of each tomato, cutting just through the skin. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl.

4. Working in batches, carefully drop the tomatoes into the boiling water and let cook for 1-2 minutes. Remove and transfer to the ice bath to cool.

5. When cool, peel the skin from the tomatoes using a pairing knife and discard. Pat the tomatoes dry and spread out on a rimmed baking sheet and lightly season with salt. Slowly roast the tomatoes for 2 hours, then set aside to let cool.

6. Quarter the tomatoes lengthwise. Set aside for use in the Chorba

7. For the soup. In a large wide heavy bottomed pot (a large Dutch oven or a rondeau), heat the oil over medium-high heat (2 to 3 min) and add the onions, carrots, turnips and sauté for 6 to 8 minutes until just beginning to soften.

8. Add the meat and garlic to the vegetables in the pot and stir to combine. Brown the meat lightly, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Coat the meat and vegetables with the cumin and turmeric and season with salt and pepper. Stir and toast the spices for a minute until fragrant. Stir in tomato paste and cook for another minute. Then add the reserved tomatoes and chickpeas, the preserved lemon and the celery. Add the remaining spices: coriander seeds, celery seeds, fennel seed and cumin seeds. Top with the white chicken stock and water to cover about one-inch above the meat.

9. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook uncovered for 1 ½ to 2 hours until the meat and vegetables are tender and the flavors have melded, adding additional water as needed to maintain a soupy consistency. Remove and discard the garlic. Remove from heat. Adjust seasonings.

10. Stir in the fresh herbs, preserved lemons, sliced celery and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Serve immediately with the additional herbs, lemon wedges and crusty bread at the table.

Iñaki Aizpitarte, Le Chateaubriand, Paris, France

NOTES

Gong bao ji ding, also known as Kung Pao chicken.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice and one stir-fried vegetable dish, 4 with three other dishes

INGREDIENTS

2 boneless chicken breasts (about 300g or 3/4 pound in total)
3 cloves of garlic and an equivalent amount of ginger
5 spring onions, white parts only
2 Tbsp groundnut oil
a handful of dried red chillies (at least 10)
1 tsp whole sichuan pepper
75 g (2/3 cup) roasted peanuts

For the marinade:

½ tsp salt
2 tsp light soy sauce
1 tsp shaoxing wine
1 tsp potato flour
1 Tbsp water

For the sauce:

3 tsp sugar
¾ tsp potato flour
1 tsp dark soy sauce
1 tsp light soy sauce tsp chinkiang vinegar
3 tsp sesame oil
1 Tbsp chicken stock or water

METHOD

1. Cut the chicken as evenly as possible into 1cm strips and then into small cubes. Mix with the marinade ingredients.

2. Peel and thinly slice the garlic and ginger, and chop the spring onions into Icm (1/2 inch) chunks. Snip the chillies into 1.5cm (3/4 inch) sections, discarding seeds as far as possible. Combine the sauce ingredients in a small bowl

3. Pour a little groundnut oil into the wok and heat until it smokes, swirling the oil around to cover the entire base of the wok. Pour off into a heatproof container. Add 3 tbsp fresh oil and heat over a high flame. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the chillies and Sichuan pepper and stir-fry for a few seconds until they are fragrant (take care not to burn them).

4. Add the chicken and continue to stir-fry. When the chicken cubes have separated, add the ginger, garlic and spring onions and stir-fry until they are fragrant and the meat is just cooked.

5. Give the sauce a stir and add to the wok, continuing to stir and toss. As soon as the sauce has become thick and lustrous, add the peanuts, mix them in, and serve immediately.

Fuchsia Dunlop via Sichuan Cookery

NOTES

The name of the dish itself comes from the Swedish word meaning ‘to bury’. This refers back to the original gravlax, which was just salted and buried in the ground to ferment before being eaten. The use of white pepper and dill as aromatics, which is completely dominating gravlax recipes today, started in the eighteenth century, but before that the fish was probably not seasoned at all, except by the cure itself.

INGREDIENTS

2¼ pounds salmon fillet, skin on, pin bones removed and patted dry
4 salt
4 sugar
20 white peppercorns, coarsely crushed
1 bunch dill, stalks and fronds separated

METHOD

1. Remove the pin bones from a clean and evenly thick piece of fish fillet. Rub it all over with a mixture of salt, sugar and aromatics. I like to store the fish and the curing mix in a plastic bag, which makes it easy to keep the whole surface of the fish in contact with the cure, ensuring an even result. When the fish is thoroughly coated, place it in its bag on a tray and set a few plates on top to weight it down a little (or use something else flat and suitably heavy). Transfer it to the refrigerator to cure for the required length of time.

2. I like to cure the salmon for about 24 hours before washing off the cure mix. To stop the cure, take the fish out of the bag and either rinse it quickly under cold running water or scrape the cure and seasonings off it. Transfer the fish to a new plastic bag, place it back on the tray and return it to the refrigerator. This allows the cure to even out within the fish. Leave it for about the same length of time as it was in the curing mix.

3. The fish can be served straight away or after only a short rest, but it will appear more cured on the surface than in the middle. Fish prepared this way is either cut straight down, at a 90-degree angle relative to the chopping (cutting) board, in slightly thicker slices of 4 to 5 mm (1/8 to 1/4 inch) or else it is cut at a 45-degree angle into very thin and much larger slices.

Magnus Nilsson, Fäviken, the Nordic Cookbook

NOTES

Cơm gà Hải Nam. Serves 4-6 as a main course.

INGREDIENTS

For the chicken

1 whole high quality chicken (about 31/2 pounds)
5 quarter-sized slices ginger, peeled or unpeeled, crushed with the broad side of a cleaver or chef's knife
½ medium yellow onion, sliced
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon fish sauce

For the rice

2 cups raw long-grain rice, such as Thai jasmine
4 tablespoons chicken fat (take from poaching liquid) or peanut oil
1½ tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
4 fresh or thawed pandan leaves, tied together in one loose knot (optional)
salt, to taste

Sauce option 1: Ginger sauce

2 inch chubby section ginger (about 2 ounces), peeled and thinly sliced
1½ tablespoons peanut oil
¼ teaspoon salt

Sauce option 2: Singapore chili sauce

2-3 large red chiles, such as Fresno, cayenne, or long chile, coarsely chopped
2-3 hot Thai chiles, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon hot chicken poaching broth

Sauce option 3: Sweet Soy Sauce

1 tablespoon light (regular) soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1½ teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon Asian chili sauce, such as Sriracha

Garnishes

1 english cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced tomato, thinly sliced or cut into wedges
4-5 sprigs cilantro, coarsely chopped

METHOD

1. Rinse and pat the chicken dry with paper towel. Cut off the head, neck, wing tips and feet - extraneous parts that are on your chicken. Use a heavy cleaver to cut the neck and wings into halves or thirds. Aim to cut through the bone. Set aside.

2. Select a pot that the chicken snugly fits into with about an inch clearance between the top of breast and the edge of the pot. Fill it halfway with water and add the extraneous parts that you just cut up, along with the ginger, onion, and salt. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat and add the chicken.

When the pot returns to a boil, lower the heat to gently simmer. Bubbles should softly dance at the surface. Basing your cooking time on the chicken's original weight, poach for 10 minutes per pound (a 31/2-pound fryer takes 35 minutes). Use tongs to rotate the chicken halfway through to ensure even cooking.

Near the end of the cooking time, get a large bowl of ice water ready and set it near the stove. Use tongs to remove the chicken from the pot and plunge it in the ice water. Turn the chicken to expose it to the cold water. Drain and place the chicken on a plate. Let it cool completely before slicing. Leave it at room temperature if serving soon, or cover it in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Bring it to room temperature before cutting.

3. Meanwhile, add the fish sauce to the broth. Boil the broth until it has reduced by one-third, or until its flavor has concentrated enough for your taste. Turn off the heat and, skim the fat - reserving it for cooking the rice. Strain the broth into another pan. Discard the solids. Cover and set aside while the chicken cools.

4. For the rice, rinse the rice and let it drain for 10 minutes in a mesh strainer positioned over a bowl. Meanwhile, bring the stock to a near simmer in a small saucepan, and then cover to keep it hot.

5. In a heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan, heat 4 tablespoons of chicken fat over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, ginger and shallot and cook, stirring constantly, until no longer raw smelling, 1 to 2 minutes. Firmly shake the strainer of rice to expel any hidden water, and then add the rice to the pot. Stir constantly with a large spoon until the grains are opaque white and feel light, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat slightly, measure out 2 ½ cups of hot broth and add the broth and expect dramatic boiling. Immediately give the pot a big stir, reduce the heat to medium to simmer, add the pandan leaves, then let the rice simmer vigorous.

Cook the rice for a few minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times, until most of the water has been absorbed and the surface looks glossy and thick; small craters/holes may form too. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it sit for 10 minutes to firm up and finish cooking. Uncover, fluff with chopsticks or a fork, and then cover. Wait 5 minutes before serving. The rice will stay warm for 30 minutes.

6. Make one, two or all of the sauces and set at the table:

For the ginger sauce, put the ginger, oil, salt, and 1 tablespoon of hot chicken poaching broth (take it from the pot) into a small electric mini chopper and process to a fine texture. Taste and add up to 2 more tablespoons of poaching broth. Transfer to a dipping sauce dish.

For the Singapore chili sauce, put all of the ingredients, the large red chiles, Thai chiles, garlic Ginger, sugar, salt, lime juice and 1 tablespoon hot chicken poaching broth into a small electric mini chopper and process to a semi-coarse sauce. Transfer to a dipping sauce dish.

For the sweet soy sauce, combine the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and chili sauce in a dipping sauce container, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

7. To serve, use a sharp knife to detach each wing at the shoulder joint. Separate the two wing sections and use a meat-chopping cleaver to chop them into smaller pieces. (Or, keep them whole.) Arrange them on one large serving plate or two small ones. Remove the breasts and leg and thigh quarters. Cut the meat off the bone and slice it into bite-size pieces. Add them to the serving plate(s) in a nice arrangement, skin side up for a beautiful presentation. (Guests may remove the skin while eating.) Finish by scattering cilantro on top.

Bring the broth to a near boil and taste, adding extra salt if necessary. Strain the broth into a large soup bowl and sprinkle with black pepper. Serve immediately with the chicken, rice, cucumber and tomato slices, and dipping sauces.

You may have guests eat the broth out of a rice bowl and the rice and chicken from a plate, using fork and spoon as primary utensils.

Charles Phan, The Slanted Door, San Francisco

NOTES

Danish Chilled Buttermilk Soup. Serves 4.

INGREDIENTS

3 egg yolks
2½ tablespoons sugar
2 cups buttermilk
1 cup kefir
½ cup heavy cream
1 lemon, juice and zest
1 pint strawberries, husked and quarters
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste (optional)
4 dry crispy biscuits, broken apart

METHOD

1. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla in a large bowl. Beat together using a handheld mixer or a large whisk until thick and pale yellow, about 6 to 8 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, stir in the buttermilk, kefir, cream and lemon juice and zestuntil well combined. Chill the soup in the fridge for at least 1 hour before serving.

2. To serve, pour the soup into 4 bowls and top each bowl with biscuit pieces. Garnish with strawberries and serve immediately.

Christian Puglisi, Relæ, Copenhagen, Denmark

NOTES

Xiao long bao are also known as Shanghai dumplings or soup dumplings that are steamed and typically filled with a mixture of pork and jellified stock.

INGREDIENTS

For the wrapper

1 g instant yeast
250 g water
0.3 g salt
225 g all-purpose (plain) flour
220 g cake (superfine plain) flour
2 g potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate solution

For the lobster coral filling

360 g shellfish stock consommé
15 g soy essence
21 g gelatin, bloomed
120 g lobster meat
10 g lobster coral, passed through a sieve
2 g salt
80 g clarified butter, whisked with nitrogen until shattered like coffee grounds
16 g scallion (spring onion), finely chopped g fresh ginger, finely chopped

Vinegar Sauce

20 g water
20 g banyuls vinegar
29 g black rice vinegar

METHOD

1. THE WRAPPER

First make a starter dough.

Whisk the yeast into 50g of the water until completely dissolved.

Add the salt, 25g of the all-purpose (plain) flour and 50g of the cake (superfine plain) flour.

Place in a mixer and knead with a dough hook for approximately 4 minutes, until a dough forms.

Knead with your hands until smooth.

Place in a bowl, cover, and leave in a warm spot to rise until doubled in size – approximately 2 hours.

When starter dough is ready, place the remaining flours in a mixer.

Add 5g of the risen dough and the potassium solution and mix with a dough hook until evenly incorporated – approximately 5 minutes.

Feed the dough through an electric sheeter about 20 times, until smooth and elastic. Wrap in plastic wrap (cling film) and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

Cut the dough sheets into 4.5g pieces and form into thin, circular wrappers using an electric sheeter or a small rolling pin.

2. LOBSTER CORAL FILLING

Bring the consommé to a boil.

Whisk in the soy essence and gelatin.

Allow to cool in the refrigerator until set.

Chop finely.

Purée the lobster meat with the coral and salt until smooth.

Combine with the clarified butter, scallion (spring onion), and ginger.

Add 380g of the chopped gel and mix until evenly incorporated.

Work quickly to prevent the gel and butter from melting.

Divide the mixture into pieces weighing 15.6-15.9g and roll them into balls.

3. VINEGAR SAUCE. Combine all ingredients and mix well.

4. SERVING. Place a ball of lobster filling in the center of each wrapper. Gather the dough around the filling by pinching the edges together in 18-20 folds. Steam the dumplings in a bamboo steamer for 5 minutes. Serve with the vinegar sauce.

Corey Lee, Benu, San Francisco, CA

NOTES

Serve with Jasmine Rice.

INGREDIENTS

600 g whole lobster
1 pack pak fook hard beancurd
1 tsp chopped garlic
1 tsp chopped red chili
1 tsp chopped pickled vegetables
1 tsp chili bean sauce
1 tsp hot & spicy sauce
½ tsp pepper oil
1 tsp fried sesame
1 tablespoon chopped spring onion
½ tsp pepper powder
1 tsp oyster sauce
½ tsp sugar
1 tsp potato starch
½ egg

METHOD

1. To make the lobster: Soak the lobster in ice water for 10 minutes so it can be de-shelled easily. Cut the lobster meat into small pieces.

2. Mix the cut lobster pieces with potato starch and egg white.

3. Use heated oil (but not boiling) to flash fry the lobster pieces to medium rare and set aside.

4. To make tofu: Cut the tofu into small pieces and set aside.

5. Sautée chopped garlic, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped red chilli, chilli bean sauce and hot & spicy sauce in a wok or pan.

6. Mix a dash of potato starch with water for a thicker paste to add into the sauce.

7. Transfer the tofu and sauce to a bowl.

8. Lightly wok-fry the lobster pieces and layer carefully over tofu.

9. Mix in pepper oil and pepper powder.

10. Garnish with fried sesame, chopped spring onion.

Lee Man Sing, Mott 32, Hong Kong

NOTES

감말랭이무침

INGREDIENTS

400 g dried persimmon
1 cucumber
1 tbsp omija (magnolia berry) syrup
5 tbsp vinegar
3 tbsp gochujang
1 tbsp blackberry syrup
1 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds, ground
pinch of black sesame seeds salt

METHOD

1. Rinse the cucumber and remove the seeds, then cut it into segments of 0.5 x 2 cm.

2. Marinate the cucumbers with a pinch of salt, 2 tbsp of vinegar and 1 tbsp of omija syrup and put aside to rest.

3. Cut the dried persimmon into bite-sized pieces. If the persimmon feels too soft let it dry in the oven to the right consistency.

4. Proceed with the persimmon in the same way as the cucumber: mix it with a pinch of salt, 2 tbsp of vinegar and 1 tbsp of omija syrup.

5. Mix 3 tbsp of gochujang, 1 tbsp blackberry syrup, 1 tbsp vinegar, and 1 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds.

6. Squeeze the cucumber segments slightly to get rid of excess liquid. Transfer them together with the persimmon in a mixing bowl and the dressing to generously coat everything. Mix evenly and transfer to a serving dish. Sprinkle black sesame seeds over the top.

Ven. Jeong Kwan

NOTES

Makes 5 1/2 cups.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg yukon gold or golden fingerling potatoes, all of similar size
454 g unsalted butter, cold, cut into small cubes
¼ cup milk
salt to taste

METHOD

1. PLACE unpeeled potatoes in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a rapid simmer and cook for 35 to 40 minutes or until tender. Drain and peel. Transfer to a bowl and let potatoes cool slightly.

2. TURN potatoes through a food mill on the finest setting, back into the cooking pot. Heat pot over medium heat stirring until heated through and steam begins to come off the bottom of the pot. Add butter in 5 additions, allowing each addition of butter to be almost melted before adding the next until it all has been incorporated.

3. STIR in warm milk until combined. Using a whisk, vigorously stir potatoes until fluffy. Season with salt.

4. SMOOTH the top of the potatoes with the back of a spoon or an offset spatula.

Joel Robuchon, The Complete Robuchon, 2008

NOTES

Rigatoni with Brussel Sprouts, Bacon, and Arugula.

To impart the taste of fresh, uncooked garlic to sauteed recipes without leaving bits of sliced or minced garlic in the finished dish, add a smashed garlic clove in the last few minutes of cooking, then remove it before serving. For a greater impact, leave it in longer; take it out quickly if just a hint of garlic is what you’re after.

Serves 6 as a starter or pasta course - 4 as a main course.

INGREDIENTS

kosher salt
48 pieces dried rigatoni (about 4 cups), preferably De Cecco
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces smoked bacon, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 3/4 cup)
10 ounces Brussels sprouts (about 12), trimmed and quartered lengthwise
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves: 1 thinly sliced, 1 smashed with the side of a chef’s knife and peeled
2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
2¼ cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 3 1/2 ounces)
1 lemon, juiced
¼ cup minced fresh herbs, either a mix of flat-leaf parsley, dill, and tarragon, or just parsley
2 cups loosely packed baby arugula, washed and spun dry
toasted bread crumbs (see recipe below)

METHOD

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta, give a stir, and cook for 5 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander, return it to the pot, and toss with the oil. Use right away or spread the pasta out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool, then hold at room temperature for up to 8 hours.

2. Select a wide, heavy, not-to-deep pot that can hold most of the ingredients in a single layer, or close to it. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in the pot over medium heat for a few seconds, just to keep the bacon from sticking when added, then add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts and 1 tablespoon of the butter and cook until the bacon is lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes more. Season generally with salt and a few grinds of pepper.

3. Add the parcooked pasta and remaining 1 tablespoon butter and cook, stirring, until the pasta is lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sliced garlic and 1 cup of the stock. Cover and cook until the pasta has absorbed the stock, 3 to 4 minutes. Add another 1/2 cup stock, cover, and cook until it is reduced and the pasta is cooked through and glazed, stirring in a few more tablespoons of the stock, if necessary, to cause a glaze to form. Stir in the smashed garlic clove, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, 1 1/2 cups of the cheese, the lemon juice, and the herbs. If the pasta seems too dry, stir in a little more stock or water.

4. Remove and discard the smashed garlic clove. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the arugula, just wilting it, about 20 seconds.

5. Divide the rigatoni among six plates (or four as an entree) or wide shallow bowls. Top with remaining cheese and bread crumbs, and serve.

6. To make toasted bread crumbs, preheat oven to 275 degrees. Dice day-old bread and put it in a bowl. (If you don’t have any day-old bread, you can lightly toast bread in a low oven until just hardened.) Grate 1 or 2 garlic cloves, depending on the intensity of flavor desired, into the bowl using a Microplane. Pick the thyme leaves from 2 or 3 sprigs, and add them to the bowl, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread the bread out on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, shaking occasionally to endure even cooking, until lightly golden, completely dry, and hardened, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and pulse to crumbs, but do not overprocess or they will become sandy. Bread crumbs can be held in an airtight container at room temperature for several weeks.

Joseph Ogrodnek, Walker Stern, and Andrew Friedman, Battersby, New York, NY

NOTES

Serves 2 as an entrée, or 4 family style

INGREDIENTS

For the roasted chicken:
1 whole chicken, 2.5-3 lbs
3 rutabagas
3 turnips
3 parsnips
3 large leeks
4 carrots, trimmed and cut in half
1½ small onion
8 small red-skinned potatoes
clarified butter (or 1/3 c. canola oil)
1 lemon

For the brine:

5 lemons, halved
6 bay leaves
½ bunch (4 ounces) flat-leaf parsley
½ bunch (1 ounce) fresh thyme
¼ cup clover honey
1 head garlic, halved through the equator
⅛ cup black peppercorns
1 cup (10 ounces) kosher salt
1 gallon water

METHOD

1. BRINE AND PREPARE. Combine all of the brine ingredients and bring to a boil. Once boiling, remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Pour brine into a container large enough to hold both the brine and the chicken. Chill brine in the refrigerator.

2. While the brine is chilling, remove the chicken neck and innards from the cavity, if present. Using a paring knife, cut out the wishbone from the chicken—this will make it easier to carve the chicken. Submerge the chicken in the cold brine and chill in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 hours.

3. When done brining, pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Discard the brine.

4. TRUSS THE CHICKEN. Cut a piece of kitchen twine about 3 feet long. Tuck the center of the string under the pope’s nose (the small bit of meat at the top of the chicken’s tail end), then wrap around and over the ends of the legs. Cross the twine and slide under each leg to create a figure 8. Pull across and back at the same time to plump the chicken breast and bring the twine all the way around the breasts. As you press into the breast meat with your thumbs at the neck, cross each side of the string under the cut neck bone. Tie a slipknot, then bring each end of the string around a wing to close them to the body. Tie off to finish. Place chicken in a baking sheet or dish and leave uncovered in the refrigerator for two days. Doing so dries out any excess moisture from the chicken skin, allowing it to crisp beautifully during roasting.

5. After two days, remove the chicken from the refrigerator and allow to temper to room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

6. PREPARE THE ROOT VEGETABLES. Cut off both ends of the rutabagas. Stand the rutabagas on end and cut away 1⁄8-inch of the tough skin, working from top to bottom. Cut into 3/4-inch wedges.

7. Repeat with the turnips, cutting the wedges to match the size of the rutabagas. Cut off the dark green leaves from the top of the leeks. Trim off and discard any darkened outer layers. Trim the root ends, cutting around them on a 45-degree angle.

8. Halve the leeks lengthwise and rinse the leeks well under warm water. Scrub the parsnips and carrots, trim, and halve lengthwise.

9. Cut the parsnips into wedges similar in size to the other vegetables to ensure even cooking.

10. Cut the onion into wedges and leave the potatoes whole.

11. Combine all the vegetables in the roasting pan and season with salt. Drizzle clarified butter or canola oil over the vegetables and mix with your hands to coat.

12. ROAST THE CHICKEN. Preheat the oven to 475°F. Brush the chicken with clarified butter and season all sides with salt. Make a nest in the center of the vegetables and nestle the chicken in it.

13. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 400°F and roast for an additional 30 to 45 minutes, or until the temperature registers 160°F in the meatiest portions of the bird (the thickest part of the thigh, and under the breast where the thigh meets the breast) and the juices run clear. If necessary, return the bird to the oven for more roasting; check it every 5 minutes.

14. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and allow to rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

15. Just before serving, set the pan of vegetables over medium heat and reheat the vegetables, turning them to coat with the pan juices.

16. Finish with a squeeze of lemon. Carve the chicken into serving pieces, arrange over the vegetables, finish with grey sea salt, and serve.

Thomas Keller, The French Laundry

NOTES

Serves 6.

INGREDIENTS

9 medium-sized potatoes
unsalted butter or duck or goose fat
chicken stock cube

METHOD

1. For the clarified butter: Slowly heat 200 g of chopped unslated butter in a pan. Discard the surface liquid (made up of milk solids and water). The remaining golden liquid is clarified butter.

2. For the potatoes. Chop the potatoes in half, then halves again.

3. Meanwhile, put the clarified butter/fat into the roasting tin for the potatoes. Sprinkle in a chicken stock cube – this provides seasoning so there is no need for salt.

4. Heat the fat in the oven at 190°C/Gas Mark 5.

5. We recommend cooking them for 45 minutes. At the first sign of cracks in the potatoes’ edges remove them from the heat and drain.

6. Remove the roasting tin from the oven and carefully place the hot potatoes into the fat, which should come up the edge of the potatoes. Baste them well with clarified butter or your turkey baste and return to your oven. Roast them for

7. Do not touch the potatoes now until they are ready to be served, turning them may break them. Just leave them be.

Marco Pierre White

NOTES

The salsa can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.

INGREDIENTS

1½ pounds tomatillos, husked and rinsed
2 cups water
½ medium white onion, chopped
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 large scallions, chopped
½ cup chopped cilantro
¼ cup chopped epazote or 1 tablespoon chopped oregano
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
fine sea salt

METHOD

Combine all the ingredients except the salt in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of salt and simmer over moderate heat until the onion is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and coarsely mash the salsa with a potato masher. Let cool completely, season with salt and serve.

Enrique Olvera, Pujol, Mexico City

NOTES

The salsa can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.

INGREDIENTS

20 soft-boiled eggs (cooked for 7 min in boiling water)

For the pork mix:

49 oz pork butt
21 oz salted fatback
1 cup filone breadcrumbs
1 cup milk
5 tablespoons kosher salt

For the sage paste:
1.5 oz sage
1 teaspoon Maldon salt
1 teaspoon Olave organic EVOO

For the breading:
1¼ cup flour
10 eggs
⅓ cup milk
1¼ cup fine filone crumbs
2 cups course filone crumbs

METHOD

1. Crack 6 cold eggs into a deep saucepan.

2. Add the butter. For smaller batches, use a 2-to-1 eggs-to-butter ratio.

3. Put the pan on high heat.

4. Stir continuously with a rubber spatula—don't whisk—making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan.

5. After 30 seconds, take the pan off the heat. Keep stirring. After about 10 seconds, put back on the heat. Repeat for 3 minutes.

6. In the last minute, season the eggs lightly. For extra creamy texture, stir in 1 tsp of crème fraîche.

7. Plate and garnish with chopped chives.

Gordon Ramsay, London, UK

INGREDIENTS

6 cold eggs
15 g butter
salt and pepper
crème fraîche
chives

METHOD

1. Portion the pork mix into 4 oz balls. Using your hands, carefully flatten out each portion into a pancake, making sure the thickness is even all around. Place one of the soft-boiled eggs on top of the sausage and wrap it around the egg. Continue with the remaining eggs and refrigerate until they are cold.

2. Place all the breading ingredients into separate bowls.

3. Take each farce wrapped egg out of the refrigerator and proceed with the following steps:

4. Dredge the egg first in flour, then coat with an egg wash, and cover the egg with a layer of the fine breadcrumbs.

5. Next repeat the egg wash and then coat a second time with a layer of the course breadcrumbs.

6. Refrigerate again until cold.

7. Fry in a 350F fryer for 9 minutes and let it rest for one minute. The yolk should be runny but warm inside.

April Bloomfield, the Breslin, London, UK

NOTES

The thick soy sauce in Kaeshi and ingredients, such as chicken and leeks give umami to the dipping sauce, intended for winter.
Serves 4.

INGREDIENTS

soba for 4 persons
280 g chicken meat
2 large scallions
50 cc dark soy sauce
20 cc thick soy sauce
10 g sugar
70 cc mirin
500 cc thick katsuo dashi
50 cc sake
sansho
mustard
egg yolk

METHOD

1. Prepare “kaeshi,” a part of the dipping sauce with the dark soy sauce, thick soy sauce, sugar and mirin. Boil them up. (Kaeshi)

2. Cut thick scallions into 5 cm lengths.

3. Dilute 1 with thick katsuo dashi and sake.

4. Add bite-sized chicken (2~3cm cube) and 2. Cook for 12 minutes.

5. Cook the soba and drain. Serve with 4. Add sansho, mustard and egg yolk as you like.

Takeshi Kawanishi, Hisago Zushi, Kobe, Japan

NOTES

Makes 6 parfaits.

Serves 4.

INGREDIENTS

¾ cup milk
½ vanilla bean, scraped
5 T butter, room temperature
½ cup plus 3 T sugar
3 T flour
2 egg yolks
⅔ cup water
1 T kirsch
1 loaf vanilla pound cake
3.5 oz. almond paste
1 lb. strawberries, trimmed

METHOD

1. Make The Crème Mousseline. In a saucepan, heat the milk, vanilla seeds and half of the butter, until the butter is melted. In a bowl, add 3 T sugar, the flour and egg yolks, and whisk in 1⁄4 of the milk mixture, then pour back into the saucepan. Bring to a boil, whisking, and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to a shallow dish and apply plastic wrap directly onto the mixture. Let cool. Transfer to a bowl and blend in the remaining butter. Chill.

2. Make The Syrup. In a small saucepan, combine the water, 1⁄2 cup sugar and kirsch, and bring to a boil. Cook for 3 minutes and chill.

3. Assemble The Parfaits. Cut the pound cake into one-inch-thick slices and punch out 12 circles using a rocks glass. Roll the almond paste into a thin layer and cut 6 circles with the glass; set aside. Push 1 disk of pound cake down into each glass and spoon 1 T of the syrup over the top. Line the sides with halved strawberries, pressing them against the glass. Spoon 1⁄4 cup crème mousseline into each glass. Arrange 4 or 5 strawberry halves in the center and top with mousseline, covering the berries. Add a second disk of pound cake to each glass and spoon on 2 T syrup. Top with the almond paste disk and garnish with powdered sugar and thinly sliced strawberries.

Sébastien Bouillet, Pâtisserie Bouillet, Lyon, France

NOTES

Inspired by the Kyoto restaurant Kitcho.

INGREDIENTS

2 oz. kombu, cleaned with a wet paper towel
½ oz. dried bonito flakes
1 whole sea bream, red snapper, or black sea bass (about 1 1⁄2 lbs.), cleaned
Kosher salt, to taste
½ cup plus 2 tbsp. sake
1 tbsp. mirin
14 oz. turnips, peeled and cut into 1″ pieces
1 tbsp. light soy sauce
2 cups cooked rice (optional)

METHOD

1. Combine kombu and 8 cups water in a 4-qt. pot and let sit for 30 minutes. Bring to a boil; using tongs, remove and discard kombu. Add bonito flakes and reduce heat to medium-low; simmer for 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let steep for 15 minutes. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a small oval pot or 3-qt. high-sided skillet. Strain stock, discarding bonito flakes; set aside.

2. Using a knife, score fish 1⁄4″ deep, making one lengthwise cut down the middle of the fish from head to tail and two crosswise cuts spaced 2″ apart. Repeat on other side and transfer to a bowl. Season cavity and skin with salt and pour 1⁄2 cup sake over fish. Refrigerate, turning fish occasionally, for 20 minutes.

3. Heat the reserved stock over medium-high heat. Stir in the remaining sake and the mirin. Add turnips and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer turnips to a bowl. Drain fish, add to the pot, and simmer, skimming off any foam from surface and continually spooning broth over fish, until  fish is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Nestle the reserved turnips in pot and season soup with soy sauce; let cook 2 more minutes. Serve soup directly from the pot with a side of rice, if you like.

Kunio Tokuoka, Kitcho, Kyoto, Japan

NOTES

Robertson describes a starter -- a mixture of flour, water, wild yeasts, and bacteria -- as a baker's fingerprint. Making one is simple, but it does require a commitment: Count on feeding and caring for the mixture for three weeks before you start baking.

INGREDIENTS

For the Starter

1135 grams white bread flour
1135 grams whole-wheat flour
455 grams water (lukewarm)
150 grams water (78 degrees) per feeding

For the Leaven

200 grams water (78 degrees)

For the Dough

750 grams water (80 degrees)
200 grams leaven
900 grams white bread flour
100 grams whole-wheat flour
20 grams salt

METHOD

1. Make the starter: Mix white bread flour with whole-wheat flour. Place lukewarm water in a medium bowl. Add 315 grams flour blend (reserve remaining flour blend), and mix with your hands until mixture is the consistency of a thick, lump-free batter. Cover with a kitchen towel. Let rest in a cool, dark place until bubbles form around the sides and on the surface, about 2 days. A dark crust may form over the top. Once bubbles form, it is time for the first feeding.

2. With each feeding, remove 75 grams; discard remainder of starter. Feed with 150 grams reserved flour blend and 100 grams warm water. Mix, using your hands, until mixture is the consistency of a thick, lump-free batter. Repeat every 24 hours at the same time of day for 15 to 20 days. Once it ferments predictably (rises and falls throughout the day after feedings), it's time to make the leaven.

3. Make the leaven: The night before you plan to make the dough, discard all but 1 tablespoon of the matured starter. Feed with 200 grams reserved flour blend and the warm water. Cover with a kitchen towel. Let rest in a cool, dark place for 10 to 16 hours. To test leaven's readiness, drop a spoonful into a bowl of room-temperature water. If it sinks, it is not ready and needs more time to ferment and ripen. As it develops, the smell will change from ripe and sour to sweet and pleasantly fermented; when it reaches this stage, it's ready to use.

4. Make the dough: Pour 700 grams warm water into a large mixing bowl. Add 200 grams leaven. Stir to disperse. (Save your leftover leaven; it is now the beginning of a new starter. To keep it alive to make future loaves, continue to feed it as described in step 2.) Add flours, and mix dough with your hands until no bits of dry flour remain. Let rest in a cool, dark place for 35 minutes. Add salt and remaining 50 grams warm water. Fold dough on top of itself to incorporate. Transfer to a medium plastic container or a glass bowl. Cover with kitchen towel. Let rest for 30 minutes.

5. The dough will now begin its first rise (bulk fermentation), to develop flavor and strength. (The rise is temperature sensitive; as a rule, warmer dough ferments faster. Robertson tries to maintain the dough at 78 degrees to 82 degrees to accomplish the bulk fermentation in 3 to 4 hours.)

6. Instead of kneading, Robertson develops the dough through a series of "folds" in the container during bulk fermentation. Fold dough, repeating every 30 minutes for 2 1/2 hours. To do a fold, dip 1 hand in water to prevent sticking. Grab the underside of the dough, stretch it out, and fold it back over itself. Rotate container one-quarter turn, and repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times for each fold. After the 3 hours, the dough should feel aerated and softer, and you will see a 20 to 30 percent increase in volume. If not, continue bulk fermentation for 30 minutes to 1 hour more.

7. Pull dough out of container using a dough spatula. Transfer to a floured surface. Lightly dust dough with flour, and cut into two pieces using dough scraper. Work each piece into a round using scraper and 1 hand. Tension will build as the dough slightly anchors to the surface as you rotate it. By the end, the dough should have a taut, smooth surface.

8. Dust tops of rounds with flour, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest on the work surface for 20 to 30 minutes. Slip the dough scraper under each to lift it, being careful to maintain the round shape. Flip rounds flour side down.

9. Line 2 medium baskets or bowls with clean kitchen towels; generously dust with flour. Using the dough scraper, transfer each round to a basket, smooth side down, with seam centered and facing up. Let rest at room temperature (75 degrees to 80 degrees), covered with towels for 3 to 4 hours before baking.

10. Bake the bread: Twenty minutes before you are ready to bake the bread, preheat oven to 500 degrees, with rack in lowest position, and warm a 9 1/2-inch round or an 11-inch oval Dutch oven (or a heavy oven-proof pot with a tight-fitting lid).

11. Turn out 1 round into heated Dutch oven (it may stick to towel slightly). Score top twice using a razor blade or a sharp knife. Cover with lid. Return to oven, and reduce oven temperature to 450 degrees. Bake for 20 minutes.

12. Carefully remove lid (a cloud of steam will be released). Bake until crust is deep golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes more.

13. Transfer loaf to a wire rack. It will feel light and sound hollow when tapped. Let cool.

14. To bake the second loaf, raise oven temperature to 500 degrees, wipe out Dutch oven with a dry kitchen towel, and reheat with lid for 10 minutes. Repeat steps 11 through 13.

Chad Robertson, Tartine Bakery, San Francisco

NOTES

Serves 6.

INGREDIENTS

2 vanilla beans
500 grams milk
500 grams heavy cream
150 grams sugar
160 grams glucose
240 grams egg yolks
10 grams skim milk powder
2.5 grams carob flour
40 grams unsalted butter, cut into cubes

METHOD

1. Cut the vanilla beans in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a knife. In a large bowl, combine the vanilla seeds and beans with the milk.

2. In a saucepan, bring the cream, sugar, glucose, and the milk mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, approximately 15 minutes.

3. Once the mixture comes to a boil, remove it from the heat, pour a few splashes of the hot cream mixture into a bowl with the egg yolks, and stir well. Continue to add small amounts of the hot cream mixture into the egg yolks and stir until the egg mixture slowly becomes warm.

4. Once the egg mixture is warm, pour the rest of the hot cream mixture in.

5. Transfer to a Thermomix and blend in the milk powder, carob flour, and butter.

6. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl.

7. Freeze the ice cream mixture in 2 Paco beakers for at least 24 hours until completely frozen, then process in the Pacojet. (Note you will have more ice cream than you need for this recipe.)

Christian Puglisi, Relæ, Copenhagen, Denmark

NOTES

Xiaolongbao is steamed bun (baozi) from eastern China, especially the regions of Shanghai and Wuxi. Din Tai Fung is an award-winning restaurant in Taipei, Taiwan which specializes in xiaolongbao. They have restaurants in several countries.

INGREDIENTS

Soup Mixture

10 cups water
3 tablespoons water (may need more)
3 lbs chicken parts (wings, backs, and necks)
2½ ounces chinese-style cured smoked ham or 2 1/2 ounces Smithfield Ham, cut into 4 slices
¾ cup green onion, rough chopped (white parts only)
2 slices peeled fresh ginger (1 inch diameter 1/2 inch thick)
1 dried shiitake mushroom
1 large garlic clove, flattened
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons shaoxing wine
1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin

Filling

1 lb ground pork
¼ lb uncooked shrimp, peeled deveined and finely chopped
⅓ cup green onion, minced (white parts only)
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 large garlic clove, minced
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon peeled fresh ginger, finely grated
½ teaspoon shaoxing wine
¼ teaspoon sesame oil

Dumplings

75 dumpling wrappers (3 in square or round)
1 large head napa cabbage, leaves separated

Sauce

1 cup black vinegar

6 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons very thin matchstick-size strips peeled fresh ginger

METHOD

1. Three days before, combine 10 cups water and all remaining soup ingredients except gelatin in large pot. Bring to boil, spooning off any foam that rises to surface. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until chicken pieces are very soft and beginning to fall apart, adding more water by cupfuls if necessary to keep chicken submerged, about 2 hours 30 minutes.

2. Strain soup; discard solids. Return broth to same pot. Boil until reduced to 2 cups, about 35 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pour 3 tablespoons water into small bowl; sprinkle gelatin over. Let stand until gelatin softens. Add to hot broth; stir until gelatin is dissolved. Transfer to 13x9x2-inch glass dish. Cover; refrigerate aspic overnight.

3. Two days before, combine all filling ingredients in large bowl and mix with fork just until blended. Cut aspic into 1/3-inch cubes. Add 1/3 of the aspic cubes to pork mixture; stir gently with wooden spoon just until incorporated. Cover and refrigerate. Return aspic to refrigerator.

4. Mix 1 cup black vinegar, 6 tablespoons soy sauce, and 2 tablespoons fresh ginger strips in small bowl. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.

5. One day prior, line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Place 1 dumpling wrapper on work surface. Spoon 1 very generous teaspoon filling onto center of wrapper, including at least 2 aspic cubes.

6. Lightly brush edges of dumpling wrapper with water. Bring 1 corner of wrapper up around filling, then pleat remaining edges of wrapper at regular intervals all around filling until filling is enclosed and wrapper forms bundle-like shape with small opening at top.

7. Gather top edges of wrapper together and twist at top to enclose filling. Place on baking sheet. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling. Refrigerate, covered, for 1 day, or freeze in single layer in covered containers for 2 weeks.

8. On the day of, line each layer of bamboo steamer basket with cabbage leaves; place over wok filled with enough water to reach just below bottom of bamboo steamer basket. (Or line metal steamer rack with cabbage leaves and set over water in large pot.) Place dumplings atop cabbage, spacing apart.

9. Bring water to boil. Cover; steam until cooked through, adding more water to wok if evaporating too quickly, about 12 minutes for fresh dumplings and 15 minutes for frozen. Serve dumplings immediately, passing sauce alongside for dipping.